A pastel-hued town spilling down the cliffs to the sea on the Amalfi Coast, Italy
The Destination Files

The Amalfi Coast
A Full Luxury Guide

Where to stay, dine, swim, sail and unwind along Italy's most beautiful stretch of coastline.

ESVRA Editorial · Destination
By ESVRA Editorial · Published May 25, 2026 · 22 min read
A considered, independent guide to the coast. Hotel, restaurant and venue links are provided for your convenience and are not sponsored.

There is nowhere in the world quite like the Amalfi Coast. Forty kilometres of near-vertical cliff, where pastel villages cling to the rock as if poured down it, where lemon groves terrace the hillsides and the Tyrrhenian Sea glitters an impossible blue below. It is a place of staggering beauty and centuries of glamour — the coast of Jackie Kennedy and Sophia Loren, of long lunches by the water and dinners under hundreds of candles, of a particular Italian art of living that the rest of the world has been trying to imitate ever since.

This is the ESVRA guide to experiencing it at its very finest. The grandest hotels and exactly which town each one sits above, the best restaurants from Michelin terraces to hidden beach trattorias, the legendary beach clubs and the secret coves, a day out on the water, the spas, and the most romantic corners of the coast. Consider it your complete companion to the Amalfi at its most beautiful.

A town built into the hillside above the sea on the Amalfi Coast
Pastel houses, terraced lemon groves, and the blue of the Tyrrhenian — the Amalfi signature.
First, The Essentials

Getting There & When to Go

The Amalfi Coast is reached through Naples — its international airport (NAP) sits about ninety minutes from Positano by road, or you can arrive in high style by private transfer, by helicopter, or by sea. The most beautiful approach of all is by boat: a private transfer from Naples or Sorrento that delivers you to your hotel's jetty with the whole coast unfurling before you. The coastal road — the Strada Statale 163 — is one of the world's great drives, but it is narrow, winding and slow in summer; most who know the coast travel between towns by ferry or private boat instead.

On the coast itself, distances are short but time is deceptive — the cliffs and traffic mean a few kilometres can take an hour. For the coast at its finest, come in late May, June, or September — the sea is warm, the bougainvillea is in bloom, and the crush of high summer has eased. July and August are glorious but crowded and hot; the shoulder months are the secret. Book the finest hotels, the best tables and the boats months ahead — on the Amalfi, the beautiful things are always spoken for early.

"The Amalfi Coast is not a place you visit. It is a place that, ever after, you measure other places against."— ESVRA
Know the Coast

The Towns of the Amalfi Coast

The coast is a string of villages, each with its own character — and where you base yourself shapes the entire trip. Some perch at sea level around a harbour; others cling high on the cliffs with the grandest views. Here is how the coast divides, west to east, and what each town is known for.

Sorrento Positano Praiano Amalfi Ravello The Tyrrhenian Sea
Coastal jewels Gateway & quiet corners

Positano

The coast's most famous face — a vertical cascade of pink, peach and white houses tumbling to a pebbled beach, draped in bougainvillea and impossibly photogenic. The most glamorous base, with the finest hotels, the best shopping and the prettiest sunset. Steep, romantic, and gloriously expensive. Everyone should stay here at least once.

Ravello

High above the coast, serene and aristocratic — the town of gardens, music and the grandest views of all. There is no beach (the sea is a shuttle ride below), but Ravello offers something rarer: silence, refinement, and terraces that hang over the entire coastline. The choice of those who want romance over the crowds.

Amalfi

The historic heart that gave the coast its name — once a great maritime republic, now a handsome town gathered around a striking striped cathedral and a working harbour. More authentic and less vertiginous than Positano, with excellent ferry connections in every direction. A practical, characterful and beautiful base.

Praiano

The quiet one, between Positano and Amalfi — a scattering of houses on the cliffs with no real town centre and all the better for it. Praiano holds the coast's only true sunset views, the most relaxed beach clubs, and a sense of local life the bigger towns have lost. For those who want the coast without the crowds.

Sorrento

Technically just before the coast proper, on the bay facing Naples and Vesuvius, Sorrento is the elegant gateway — larger, livelier, and beautifully connected by ferry to everywhere. A graceful old town, grand clifftop hotels, and the easiest logistics on the peninsula. A fine base for those who want to range widely.

Scenic view of Sorrento harbour with Mediterranean architecture
Sorrento — the graceful gateway to the coast, on the bay that faces Vesuvius.
Where to Stay

The Hotels

The Amalfi Coast holds some of the most celebrated hotels in the world — properties where hospitality has been refined over generations, where every hand-painted tile and terrace lounger is placed with intention. Here are the finest, by town.

Sunbeds and umbrellas on a terrace overlooking the sea on the Amalfi Coast
A terrace above the Tyrrhenian — the defining luxury of the coast is the view.

In Positano

Le Sirenuse
Positano

The icon. A family-owned former summer palace, perched mid-cliff over Positano, synonymous with refined Italian elegance for seventy years. Hand-painted tiles, antique furniture, a champagne bar with a resident DJ, and the most famous terrace on the coast. Home to the Michelin-starred La Sponda. There is no more romantic address in Italy.

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Il San Pietro di Positano
Positano · Laurito

Just outside Positano, carved into the cliff and almost invisible from the road — a Relais & Châteaux legend with cascading terraces of bougainvillea, a private beach club reached by lift through the rock, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Discreet, breathtaking, and beloved by those who return year after year.

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Villa TreVille
Positano · Arienzo

The former home of director Franco Zeffirelli, now the coast's most exclusive and theatrical hideaway — a cluster of antique-filled villas above a private beach, all colour, art and cinematic glamour. Intimate, romantic and utterly singular, with a private boat and a sense of staying in a friend's extraordinary house.

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Hotel Le Agavi
Positano

A cliffside retreat connected by a private funicular running down to its own beach club, with sweeping terraces, a Michelin-starred restaurant and some of the best panoramic views in Positano. Quieter than the in-town grand hotels, with the same extraordinary outlook.

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In Ravello

Caruso, A Belmond Hotel
Ravello

An eleventh-century palace turned sublime hotel, crowning Ravello with the single most photographed infinity pool on the coast — a sheet of water that seems to spill straight into the sky and sea beyond. Frescoed ceilings, antique gardens, a vintage wooden boat for guests, and a hilltop serenity nowhere else can match.

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Palazzo Avino
Ravello

The "Pink Palace" — a twelfth-century villa of pure old-world glamour, with a Michelin-starred restaurant, a rooftop for sunset, and a rare luxury for Ravello: its own private beach club down on the coast, reached by hotel shuttle. Family-run, exquisitely so, and a longtime favourite of those in the know.

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Villa Cimbrone
Ravello

A storied estate dating to the twelfth century, with legendary gardens and the famous Terrace of Infinity — a row of marble busts above a sheer drop to the sea, perhaps the most romantic view in all of Italy. An intimate hotel of history and beauty, beloved by Greta Garbo and generations of artists since.

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In Amalfi & Conca dei Marini

Hotel Santa Caterina
Amalfi

A grande dame just outside Amalfi town, family-owned for a century, set in citrus and olive gardens with a seawater pool and a beach club reached by lift through the cliff. Timeless, gracious and quietly grand — the kind of place that has perfected the art of the unhurried Italian holiday.

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Borgo Santandrea
Amalfi

The coast's most acclaimed recent opening — a reimagined cliffside hotel ninety metres above the sea, with its own private beach and pier, hand-crafted ceramic tiles throughout, and a polished, contemporary take on Amalfi glamour. Complimentary boat and shuttle to Amalfi. Already a modern classic.

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Monastero Santa Rosa
Conca dei Marini

A seventeenth-century monastery turned intimate twenty-room hotel, perched between Amalfi and Praiano, with a spectacular tiered infinity pool, a serene spa, and a sense of deep peace. Adults-oriented, romantic and exclusive — one of the most special small hotels on the entire coast.

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Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel
Amalfi

A former thirteenth-century monastery above Amalfi town, with a dramatic cliff-edge setting, an ancient cloister, and a long terrace walk lined with wisteria and sea views. Grand in scale and history, with the convenience of being moments above Amalfi's harbour and town.

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In Sorrento

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria
Sorrento

Owned by the same family since 1834, set in citrus gardens on the cliff edge above Sorrento's marina, facing Vesuvius across the bay. A belle-époque masterpiece where Caruso once stayed, with frescoed salons, a fine spa and a sense of grand, historic occasion. The classic Sorrento address.

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Where to Eat

The Restaurants

Dining on the Amalfi Coast ranges from candlelit Michelin terraces to rustic beach trattorias reached only by boat — and the finest experiences span both. The ingredients are sublime: the lemons, the seafood pulled from the water that morning, the tomatoes, the buffalo mozzarella from the plains below. Here is where to eat it.

Tables set outside a restaurant on the Amalfi Coast
A table by the water, the catch of the day, a chilled bottle of Falanghina — the coast's simplest pleasure.

The Grand Tables

La Sponda
Positano · Le Sirenuse

The most romantic restaurant in Italy, and arguably the most photographed terrace in the south. Inside Le Sirenuse, lit each evening by over four hundred candles, with chef Gennaro Russo's Michelin-starred Mediterranean cooking and live music drifting over the view of Positano below. Book weeks ahead. Dress beautifully. It is unforgettable.

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Rossellinis
Ravello · Palazzo Avino

The Michelin-starred dining room of the Pink Palace, with a romantic terrace over the Ravello coastline and refined, contemporary cooking rooted in Campania's finest produce. One of the great fine-dining experiences of the coast, high above the sea.

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Il San Pietro
Positano · Laurito

The Michelin-starred restaurant of the legendary hotel, with panoramic terraces over Positano and Mediterranean cuisine built on impeccable local ingredients. A long, luminous lunch here — or a candlelit dinner — is one of the coast's defining pleasures.

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The Beach Trattorias & Local Tables

Da Adolfo
Positano · Laurito Beach

The coast's most beloved institution — a rustic beach trattoria reachable only by the little boat with the red fish on its mast, which leaves the Positano pier hourly. Grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves, the catch of the day, jugs of chilled white wine, feet in the sand. A long, lazy lunch here is essential Amalfi.

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Trattoria Da Gemma
Amalfi

A gastronomic landmark in the heart of Amalfi town since 1872, hidden up a lane near the cathedral, serving seafood and traditional Campanian cooking with real soul. The pasta with the day's catch and the legendary local specialities draw a devoted following. Book ahead.

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Cumpà Cosimo
Ravello

A Ravello institution run by the beloved Netta Bottone, serving generous homestyle Campanian cooking — handmade pasta, hearty mountain dishes, and a warmth that has kept guests returning for decades. The antidote to the grand hotel dining room, and all the more cherished for it.

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Il Pirata
Praiano

Built into the rocks at the water's edge below Praiano, reached by lift or steps, with tables almost in the sea and some of the best sunset views on the coast. Fresh seafood, a dramatic setting, and that rare thing — a spectacular spot that still feels genuinely local.

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More Tables Worth the Journey

La Tagliata
Positano · Montepertuso

High in the hills above Positano, a family farm-restaurant spread over three terraces of organic gardens, with a staggering view down to the village, the Li Galli islands and Capri beyond. No menu — just a generous, ever-changing feast of charcoal-grilled meats and homegrown vegetables. Rustic, joyful, and unforgettable.

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Chez Black
Positano

A Positano institution right on Spiaggia Grande since 1949, flanked by two bronze lions — buzzy, glamorous, and a long-time celebrity favourite. Come for the people-watching and the classics: the seafood scialatielli, the pizza, a chilled glass of white with your feet steps from the sand.

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M'Ama!
Praiano · Hotel Margherita

Praiano's most acclaimed table — refined Mediterranean cooking built on local recipes and the freshest ingredients, served on a panoramic terrace over the sea. Quieter and more polished than the beach trattorias, with the warmth that defines this gentle stretch of coast.

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Lo Scoglio
Nerano · Marina del Cantone

Worth the boat across the peninsula — the legendary family seafood restaurant on the water at Nerano, where yachts moor offshore and the jet-set comes for the famous spaghetti alla Nerano (with zucchini) and the freshest raw seafood. A coast classic, utterly unpretentious despite its fame.

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"On the Amalfi, the finest meals are not always the grandest. Sometimes they are a plate of pasta, your feet in the sand, and the boat back to the pier at dusk."— ESVRA
The Italian Ritual

The Cafés & Pasticcerie

No Italian day begins without the ritual — an espresso at the bar, a pastry, the morning paper. The Amalfi Coast does this beautifully, and its historic cafés and pasticcerie are destinations in their own right. Here are the ones to seek out, by town.

A charming coastal view through a vibrant alley on the Amalfi Coast
A morning espresso, a glimpse of the sea through the lanes — the coast's daily ritual.

In Positano

La Zagara
Positano

The most beloved bar-patisserie in Positano — a shaded terrace draped in lemon trees, an irresistible counter of sfogliatelle, babà and delizia al limone, and an excellent granita to cool a summer afternoon. As much an institution as a café. The place to pause mid-wander through the boutiques.

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Casa e Bottega
Positano

A chic, light-filled café and homeware boutique in one — fresh juices, smoothies, beautiful healthy plates and natural gelato, served among the handmade ceramics and linens that are also for sale. A refreshing, design-led change of pace, and a favourite for a lighter breakfast or lunch.

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In Amalfi

Pasticceria Andrea Pansa
Amalfi

An institution since 1830, right on the cathedral square — like stepping onto a 1930s film set, with white-jacketed, bow-tied waiters and a vintage interior. Stand at the bar among the locals for a cappuccino, or take a table facing the Duomo. The candied citrus and the sfogliatella are legendary.

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In Ravello

Caffè Calce
Ravello

On Ravello's main piazza beside the Duomo, family-run and famous for the best granita di caffè on the coast — a strong, slushy iced coffee that is bliss on a hot day — alongside a fine pastry counter and reliably good gelato. The classic Ravello pause between the gardens.

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In Sorrento

Fauno Bar
Sorrento

The grand café of Piazza Tasso, Sorrento's liveliest square — open from the first cappuccino of the morning until two in the morning, equally good for people-watching over coffee, a pre-dinner aperitivo, or a nightcap. A timeless Sorrento institution with the best seat in town.

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Sun & Sea

The Beaches & Beach Clubs

A truth worth knowing before you pack: the Amalfi Coast has very few sandy beaches. Most are pebbled or rocky coves, many reached only by boat — and that is part of their charm. The beach-club ritual here is a full-day affair of sunbeds, long lunches and chilled wine, and the finest clubs are destinations in themselves.

Deckchairs lined up overlooking the sea on the Amalfi Coast
The beach-club ritual: a sunbed above the blue, a long lunch, and nowhere to be.
Arienzo Beach Club
Positano

The most famous on the coast — a secluded, sun-soaked cove below Positano with retro orange umbrellas, reached by complimentary shuttle boat from the main pier. South-facing, so the sun lasts late into the day. A seafood restaurant, a bar, and the postcard Positano beach day. Reserve well ahead.

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Da Ferdinando
Positano · Fornillo Beach

The laid-back local favourite, a short walk along the coastal path from the Positano ferry port on quieter Fornillo Beach. Family-owned, with excellent food, an easy atmosphere and none of the scene — for many regulars, the best beach day in Positano.

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One Fire Beach
Praiano

The party of the coast — a platform-and-cliff club in Praiano famous for its DJ sets, its theatrical afternoon "melon time," and the only true sunset views on the Amalfi. No real beach, but free boat shuttles from Positano and Praiano, and the most fun on the coast if dancing in the sun is the plan.

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La Gavitella
Praiano

Beside One Fire but altogether calmer — a sun-drenched, west-facing club with views across to Positano in the distance, king-sized cabanas, a very good restaurant and even cooking classes. All-day sun and a relaxed, elegant atmosphere.

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A Day Afloat

On the Water

The Amalfi Coast is best understood from the sea — only from a boat do you grasp the full drama of the cliffs, and only by boat do you reach the hidden coves, the grottoes and the beach trattorias that road-bound travellers never see. A private day on the water is the single finest thing you can do here.

Charter a classic gozzo — the traditional wooden Sorrentine boat — with a skipper for the day, and trace the coast at your own pace: the Emerald Grotto near Conca dei Marini, the fjord at Furore, a swim in the clear water off Nerano, lunch at a beach restaurant reached only from the sea. Many of the grand hotels keep their own vintage boats for guests. From the more glamorous marinas you can also island-hop to Capri, an easy day-trip across the water — for which we have a dedicated guide.

Aerial view of a person swimming in the clear sea at Bagni Regina Giovanna near Sorrento, Italy
Bagni della Regina Giovanna near Sorrento — a natural sea pool ringed by ancient ruins.
After Dark

Bars & Nightlife

The Amalfi Coast does not do nightlife the way Mykonos or Capri do — and that is rather the point. Evenings here are long and golden: aperitivo at sunset, a slow dinner, a digestivo of locally made limoncello, a nightcap on a terrace under the stars. The glamour is in the setting, not the spectacle.

The seashore at sunset on the Amalfi Coast, Italy
Golden hour on the coast — the evening's true spectacle is the light itself.
Franco's Bar
Positano · Le Sirenuse

The most stylish aperitivo on the coast — a chic, intimate bar beside Le Sirenuse with a terrace facing the Positano sunset, expert cocktails and a soundtrack curated by the hotel. Arrive before sundown, order a negroni, and watch the village light up below. No reservations; arrive early.

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Music on the Rocks
Positano

The coast's one true late-night club — carved into the rock at the end of Positano's main beach, an institution since the 1970s with DJs and dancing until the small hours. When the night calls for more than a digestivo, this is where Positano goes.

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The Rooftop · Palazzo Avino
Ravello

For a sunset above the clouds, the rooftop bar of the Pink Palace in Ravello is unmatched — cocktails and champagne with the entire coastline falling away below. Serene, elegant, and the most beautiful place on the coast to raise a glass as the light goes.

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For Lovers

The Most Romantic Spots

Few places on earth are as made for romance as this coast. If you are here to celebrate — a honeymoon, an anniversary, or simply each other — these are the moments to seek out.

A charming Amalfi Coast balcony overlooking the sea
A balcony, the sea, and nowhere to be — the coast's quietest luxury.
The Terrace of Infinity
Ravello · Villa Cimbrone

The single most romantic view in Italy — a long marble terrace lined with classical busts, hanging over a sheer drop to the sea and sky beyond, in the gardens of Villa Cimbrone. Go in the late afternoon as the light softens. It is the kind of view that silences everyone who reaches it.

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Dinner at La Sponda
Positano

Four hundred candles, live mandolin, and Positano glittering below — there is no more romantic dinner on the coast. Reserve the terrace, dress for the occasion, and let the evening unfold slowly.

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A Private Sunset Sail
The Coast

Charter a wooden gozzo for the golden hour, a bottle of chilled Falanghina on board, and watch the cliffs turn rose and amber from the water as the lights of the villages come on one by one. The most beautiful way to end a day on the Amalfi.

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Rest & Restore

Spas & Wellness

After the steps — and the Amalfi Coast is all steps — the coast's finest spas are a balm. The grand hotels hold the best of them, each pairing serious treatments with that singular Amalfi view.

Monastero Santa Rosa Spa
Conca dei Marini

One of the most serene spas on the coast, set within the former monastery, with treatments rooted in local botanicals — lemon, honey, herbs from the cliffside gardens — and a stillness that befits its history. The tiered infinity pool alone is restorative.

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Caruso Spa & the Infinity Pool
Ravello

At Belmond's hilltop palace, treatments come paired with the most famous pool on the coast — that mirror of water hanging between the gardens and the sky. To swim there at dusk, then be cared for in the spa, is the coast at its most indulgent.

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Beyond the Beach

What to Do

Between the sunbeds and the long lunches, the coast rewards the curious. A few experiences are essential.

Amalfi Coast lemons in bowls and on plates
The famous sfusato lemons — vast, fragrant, and the soul of the coast's cooking.
The Gardens of Ravello
Ravello

Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone hold two of the most beautiful gardens in Italy, suspended above the coast. Villa Rufolo's terraces — which inspired Wagner — host the celebrated Ravello Festival of classical music each summer, performed on a stage that seems to float over the sea.

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The Path of the Gods
Above Praiano & Positano

The Sentiero degli Dei — the legendary high cliff-path that runs between Bomerano and Nocelle, hundreds of metres above the sea, with views the length of the coast. Walk it in the cool of the morning; it is the finest walk on the Amalfi and needs only good shoes and a head for heights.

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A Lemon Grove & Limoncello
The Coast

The coast's terraced lemon groves — of the vast, fragrant sfusato lemon — are central to its identity and its cooking. Visit a working grove above Amalfi or Sorrento, learn how limoncello is made, and taste it ice-cold at the source. A simple, lovely afternoon.

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In Town

Where to Shop

Shopping on the Amalfi is its own pleasure — not the global luxury houses, but generations-old artisans: linen resortwear sewn by hand, leather sandals fitted to your foot while you wait, the famous hand-painted ceramics, and gourmet treasures to carry home. Here is the best, by category.

A colorful hand-painted ceramic display in an artisan shop on the Amalfi Coast
The hand-painted ceramics of the coast — lemon-bright, made the same way for centuries.

Fashion & Resortwear

Emporio Sirenuse
Positano

The spirit of Le Sirenuse, to take home — the hotel's own line of beautifully made resortwear, swimwear and accessories for men and women, in the prints and palette that define Positano elegance. The single most stylish boutique on the coast.

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La Bottega di Brunella
Positano

Since 1965, this family atelier has made its flowing linen and silk clothing by hand in Positano — the original, authentic "Positano fashion," in soft natural tones. Quietly luxurious, beautifully cut, and a world away from the tourist racks.

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Antica Sartoria
Positano & Sorrento

The most famous name in Positano resortwear — embroidered kaftans, crochet, broderie anglaise and breezy summer dresses in joyful profusion, at far gentler prices. Several boutiques across the coast; impossible to leave empty-handed.

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Handmade Sandals

Nanà Positano
Positano

Bespoke leather sandals cut and fitted to your foot in minutes — choose the style, the leather, the embellishment, and watch them made before you. Beautifully crafted, surprisingly comfortable, and the most Amalfi keepsake there is. They will ship worldwide.

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L'Artigianato Rallo
Positano

One of the best-equipped sandal ateliers on the coast, with a vast array of styles made to order while you wait. A Positano fixture for decades, and a fine place to commission a classic pair — or three.

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Ceramics

Ceramica Assunta
Positano

A Positano landmark since 1949, with the coast's signature lemon-bright plates, tiles, jugs and tableware, all hand-painted in the traditional way. The shop alone is a joy to browse, and they will pack and ship a full dinner service safely home.

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The Workshops of Vietri sul Mare
Vietri sul Mare

At the coast's eastern end lies the historic heart of Amalfi ceramics — a town of workshops where the famous pottery has been made for centuries. For the widest choice and the chance to see the craft at its source, no shop on the coast compares.

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Gourmet & Limoncello

Russo Salvatore
Positano

Since 1890, steps from the Spiaggia Grande, the Russo family has sold the coast's gourmet delicacies — and now fine wines too. Limoncello, olive oil, pasta, preserves and Campanian treasures, beautifully presented and perfect to carry home.

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La Valle dei Mulini
Ravello

An emporium of certified Amalfi limoncello (look for the IGP label), from simple glass decanters to decorative ceramic amphoras, plus finocchietto, coffee liqueur and more — all made to traditional recipes with no preservatives. The finest place to buy the coast's signature spirit.

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Cliffside houses in Positano on the Amalfi Coast, Italy
Positano from below — the lanes of boutiques climbing the cliff to the sky.

The Insider's Amalfi Coast

01
Travel by sea, not by road. The coastal road is breathtaking but agonisingly slow in season. Ferries and private boats between Positano, Amalfi and Sorrento are faster, cooler and far more beautiful. Build your days around the water.
02
It is a coast of steps. There are no flat towns here — Positano alone is hundreds of stairs from top to sea. Pack flat, grippy shoes for the day, and choose your hotel's location with the climb in mind.
03
Book everything early. The best hotels, the candlelit tables at La Sponda, the sunbeds at Arienzo, the boats — all are reserved months ahead in summer. Spontaneity is the one luxury the Amalfi does not offer in August.
04
Most beaches are pebbles. Bring or buy a pair of water shoes — the rocky coves are beautiful but hard on bare feet. And remember a sunbed reservation often includes the shuttle boat to reach the club.
05
Split your stay. Ravello for romance and views, a coastal town for swimming and logistics. A few nights in each gives you both faces of the coast — the serene heights and the glittering sea.
06
The shoulder season is the secret. Late May, June and September give you warm water, blooming bougainvillea and golden light — without the August crowds, heat and prices. The coast at its very best.
The Perfect Trip

The Amalfi Coast in Three Days

Day One

Positano & the Sunset

Lose the morning wandering down through Positano's boutiques to the beach, a sandal fitting along the way. Lunch at Da Adolfo — the red-fish boat from the pier — then an afternoon swim. Aperitivo at Franco's Bar as the village lights come on, and a candlelit dinner at La Sponda to end the day in the most romantic way the coast knows.

Day Two

The Beach Club & the Water

A slow start, then the beach-club ritual — the shuttle boat to Arienzo for the day, or a private gozzo along the coast to the Emerald Grotto, the Furore fjord and a swim off Nerano. Lunch on the water, champagne in the afternoon. Dinner at Il Pirata in Praiano, with the sun setting into the sea.

Day Three

Ravello & the Heights

Up to Ravello for the morning — the gardens of Villa Rufolo and the Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone, the most beautiful view in Italy. A long lunch at Cumpà Cosimo, an afternoon by the Caruso infinity pool, and a final sunset cocktail on the Palazzo Avino rooftop, the whole coast falling away below.

A Closing Note

The Art of the Amalfi

The secret of the Amalfi Coast is to slow down to its rhythm. This is not a place to rush between sights — it is a place to take a boat where you might have taken a car, to let a lunch stretch into the afternoon, to climb the steps slowly and stop for the view. Swim before lunch, sail when you can, eat the lemons in everything, and watch at least one sunset from the water. Do that, and the coast gives you something no photograph ever quite captures.

For more of the Mediterranean, see our guides to Capri — an easy sail across the water — and Mykonos, and our edit on Saint-Tropez. And before you pack, our guide to quiet luxury.

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