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Styling · The Kaftan

Resort Energy, City Hours

The kaftan left the beach. If it only works on a lounger, it is not this edit.

Resort Energy, City Hours — a woman in a flowing kaftan, the ESVRA styling edit on the kaftan by colour

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Styling  /  Curated by ESVRA

The kaftan spent thirty years being the thing you pulled on over a wet swimsuit. Somewhere between the hotel room and the beach club, it was never quite clothing.

That changed when the houses started cutting it properly. Loro Piana gave it a shoulder. Eres made it in cotton dense enough to hold a line. Johanna Ortiz and Emporio Sirenuse kept the print but lost the shapelessness. What arrived was a dress that happens to have the ease of a cover-up — not a cover-up pretending to be a dress.

Which is where most people still get it wrong. The kaftan fails the moment it is styled as a holiday: the matching hat, the woven tote, the shell at the throat, the flat that only works on sand. Four correct pieces that together read as a costume. It is the same mistake as head-to-toe linen — nothing is wrong, and the whole thing is.

The rule is one easy piece and one serious shoe. A leather flip-flop rather than a rubber one. A bag with a structure. Gold at the throat, or nothing. The test is simple: if it only works on a lounger, it is not in this edit.

Loro Piana and Eres lead on the plain ones. La DoubleJ, Mary Katrantzou and The Attico take the print further than most will want. Lisa Marie Fernandez sits between the two, and Juliet Dunn and Miguelina are where the embroidery lives.

This is not an edit for the woman who wants to look like she is on holiday. It is for the one who wears the same dress to lunch in town — the white, the neutral, the pastel, the black and the printed.

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✦ From the Editor

Mine is the Loro Piana Tilde. I wear it like a dress, not like a cover-up.— K.W., Editor-in-Chief

✦ How to Wear It
The lunch

Kaftan, leather flip-flop, one cord at the neck.

The evening

Darker kaftan, same shoe or a sandal with a shape.

The mistake

Head-to-toe holiday on a city street.

✦ If You Only Buy One
The one
A kaftan you would wear to lunch that is not on the sand.
The investment
Loro Piana Tilde Cotton Kaftan, or Eres Voilier Cotton Kaftan.
The quieter price
Eres Bibi Linen Kaftan, or The Row City Leather Flip Flops, Black if the shoe is the investment.
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The Kaftan

Every piece in the edit — tap to shop.

The Colours
The White Kaftan

The purest, most versatile of them all — white is the kaftan at its most effortless, elegant without trying too hard. Lisa Marie Fernandez's hooded gauze and Eres's crisp cotton carry from morning swim to evening terrace with nothing more than a change of sandal.

Lisa Marie Fernandez Hooded Crinkled Linen Gauze Kaftan

Hooded linen gauze. A kaftan that can leave the beach. No matching raffia hat.

SLOAN Shell-Detailed Cotton Voile Maxi Kaftan

Sloan voile, shell detail. One shell on the cloth — none on the neck.

Eres Voilier Cotton Kaftan

The Voilier. Eres cotton. This is the investment kaftan.

The Neutral Kaftan

This is the season's quiet-luxury direction — butter, ivory, sand and warm brown replacing the loud brights of summers past. Loro Piana's cotton and Johanna Ortiz's voile are the pieces you pack when you intend to look expensive and say nothing at all.

Eres Bibi Linen Kaftan

The Bibi linen. Softer than the Voilier. Day.

Loro Piana Tilde Cotton Kaftan

The Tilde. Loro Piana — city hours in a kaftan, which is the whole point of this edit.

Mary Katrantzou Collins Floral-print Twill Kaftan

The Collins print. One print. Plain sandal.

Loro Piana Striped Printed Linen and Silk-blend Kaftan

Loro stripe on linen-silk. One stripe. Stop.

Lisa Marie Fernandez Crinkled Linen Gauze Kaftan, Brown

Brown gauze. Darker, so it can do dinner.

Johanna Ortiz Aqua Cruiser Cotton Voile Kaftan

Aqua Cruiser voile. Ortiz print. Leather sandal, not a theme.

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The Kaftan

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The Pastel Kaftan

Soft colour with a gentle pop — blush, sky blue, citrus yellow and a whisper of green. Camilla's crystal-embellished silk and Emporio Sirenuse's Jenna bring the daytime-event energy: refreshing, feminine, and made for golden hour.

Dima Ayad Floral-embroidered Woven Kaftan, Yellow

Yellow embroidery. Colour is enough. Quiet jewellery.

Melissa Odabash June Knitted Lamé Kaftan

June lamé knit. Evening kaftan. Black sandal.

Camilla Crystal-embellished Printed Silk Kaftan, Pink

Crystal on printed silk. The kaftan is the jewellery.

Juliet Dunn Embellished Floral Cotton Kaftan

Juliet Dunn embellished floral. Holiday house, town rules if the shoe is right.

Juliet Dunn Floral Scalloped Cotton Kaftan

Scalloped floral cotton. Softer Dunn. Day.

Miguelina Valentina Cotton-lace Kaftan, Blue

Valentina lace, blue. Pretty. Severe sandal.

Andres Otalora Cefalonia Chiffon Caftan

Cefalonia chiffon. Movement. No extra floaty layer.

Emporio Sirenuse Jenna Printed Silk-voile Kaftan, Green

The Jenna, green voile. Positano bones. Town at night if you drop the hat.

The Black Kaftan

The after-dark kaftan — the one that trades breezy for striking. The Attico's zebra-print and Ola by Ohaila Khan's fringed sequins prove that black, belted and embellished, is the fastest way to take the silhouette from the beach straight into the evening.

The Attico Zebra-print Cotton Kaftan, Black

Zebra on black cotton. Animal is the only idea.

Ola by Ohaila Khan Fringe-Trimmed Sequined Crepe Caftan

Fringe and sequin. Evening only. Walkable shoe.

The Printed Kaftan

The hero piece — big romantic blooms, bold stripes and artisanal prints in full colour. Missoni's metallic crochet, La DoubleJ's silk twill and Johanna Ortiz's painterly cotton are the statement kaftans that command a room the moment you walk in.

La DoubleJ Square Printed Silk Twill Kaftan

La DoubleJ silk twill. Print house. Plain bag.

Eres Holi Belted Printed Silk Kaftan

Holi, belted silk. Eres print with a waist.

Dima Ayad Striped Sequined Maxi Kaftan

Stripe and sequin. Two ideas — keep the foot quiet.

Dima Ayad Floral-Print Maxi Kaftan

Floral maxi. The simpler Ayad.

Juliet Dunn Embroidered Sheer Cotton Kaftan

Sheer embroidered cotton. Underwear as architecture. Jacket until it isn't.

Posse Cove Embroidered Sheer Cotton Tulle Kaftan

The Cove, sheer tulle. Same rule as the Dunn sheer.

Johanna Ortiz Printed Cotton Kaftan

Ortiz printed cotton. Day print.

Juliet Dunn Embroidered Cotton Kaftan

Embroidered cotton, opaque. The Dunn you can wear to lunch.

Adriana Degreas Bold Stripes Kaftan

Bold stripe. One stripe on the body.

Missoni Striped Metallic Crochet-knit Kaftan, Orange

Missoni metallic crochet, orange. House knit. No second stripe.

Mary Katrantzou Printed Fil Coupé Organza Kaftan, Multi

Fil coupé organza, multi. Evening print. Black sandal.

How to Style It

A kaftan is only as good as what you wear it with. The styling is simple: let the footwear set the hour, carry raffia by day, and add gold at the throat when the sun goes down.

The Sandal — Day to Night

Footwear sets the hour. A flat leather flip-flop or chain sandal keeps the kaftan easy by day; the fishnet or embellished pair takes it into the evening. Let the shoe decide the register.

The Row City Leather Flip Flops, Black

The Row City, black leather. A flip-flop that is still a shoe. This is how the kaftan leaves the beach.

A.Emery Kinto Leather Flip Flops, Black

The Kinto. Less famous, same job as the City.

Bottega Veneta Dot Lagoon Chain Flat Sandals

Dot Lagoon chain flat. Bottega. The kaftan stays quiet.

ALAÏA Fishnet and Suede Sandals

Alaïa fishnet and suede. The foot is the jewellery.

Miu Miu Rubber Thong Sandals

Miu Miu rubber thong. Joke shoe. Severe kaftan.

Miu Miu Leather Sandals

Miu Miu leather. The grown pair.

The Bag — The Raffia Hour

Nothing says resort like woven straw. A raffia shoulder bag or basket is the piece that finishes the daytime kaftan — carried to lunch, to the market, to the beach club and back.

Chloé Summer Banana Raffia Shoulder Bag

Summer Banana. One raffia bag. The kaftan should not also be raffia.

The Row Alma Medium Raffia Shoulder Bag

The Alma raffia. The Row. Town hours.

Zimmermann Goldentime Small Raffia Top-handle Bag

Goldentime small. Handle. Evening-adjacent raffia.

Prada Re-Edition 2005 Mini Raffia-effect Shoulder Bag

Re-Edition mini, raffia-effect. Famous shape, summer cloth.

Jacquemus Spiaggia Small Raffia Top-handle Bag

Spiaggia small. Contained Jacquemus.

Balenciaga Le City Small Raffia Basket Bag

Le City raffia basket. City in the name — keep it that way.

The Necklace — Gold at the Throat

The finishing move. A cord-and-gold pendant, a pearl strand or a sculptural leather-and-gold piece is what turns the kaftan from beach cover-up into evening dress. One necklace, and the whole look shifts.

Alighieri Melody Cord and Gold-plated Necklace

Melody cord. Almost nothing. The piece you leave on.

Julietta Perla Pearl and Crystal Beaded Necklace

Perla beads. If the kaftan is printed, skip this.

Jennifer Fisher Dagger Gold-plated Necklace

The dagger. A point. Severe neckline.

Sophie Buhai Spear Silver and Onyx Necklace

Spear, silver, onyx. Quiet metal.

KHAITE Lotus Leather and Gold-plated Necklace

Lotus leather and gold. Unexpected at the throat.

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How to Style It

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The Houses

The Designers in this Edit

Every piece in this edit, by the houses behind it. Explore them all.

Loro Piana Camilla Johanna Ortiz Missoni La DoubleJ Lisa Marie Fernandez Eres The Attico Mary Katrantzou Emporio Sirenuse Juliet Dunn Dima Ayad Miguelina Adriana Degreas Melissa Odabash Andres Otalora SLOAN Posse Ola by Ohaila Khan

Pack better, not more — and let one flowing piece carry you from the resort to the city, from noon to midnight.— ESVRA