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The Most Wanted · Colour

The Jewel Tone

One stone, not a colour wardrobe. Emerald, amethyst, citrine and ruby — deep enough to make everything else look ordinary.

The Jewel Tone — a woman in an amethyst purple silk gown on a New York street at night, ESVRA Most Wanted
The Most Wanted  /  Curated by ESVRA

Jewel tone is not a mood board of every gem at once. It is one depth of colour, worn as if it were navy — which is to say, without apology and without a second jewel fighting it.

Emerald works because it is close to black in a room. Amethyst works because it is close to shadow. Citrine and ruby only work when the cloth is matte or silk, never both loud and shiny.

The mistake is collecting them. A ruby lip, an emerald bag and a citrine dress is a window at Cartier, not an outfit.

Pick the stone. Build the week around it. Everything else goes quieter than it was last year.

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✦ From the Editor

Mine is the Alaïa Draped Halterneck Jersey Maxi Dress. At night it reads as black until the light hits it. That is the version I want.— K.W., Editor-in-Chief

✦ How to Wear It
Tuesday

The DÔEN or FFORME midi, cream or black beside it. The jewel is the only temperature in the outfit.

Saturday

Galvan emerald or Tom Ford amethyst, a naked shoe, gold you already own. Don't add a second stone.

The one that shouldn't work

The Khaite mini with the same trouser you'd wear with ivory. Saturation against entirely ordinary clothes.

✦ If You Only Buy One
The one
Pick the stone first, then the length. Emerald for calm depth, ruby if you want the room to stop, amethyst if you want it less obvious than red.
The investment
Alaïa's draped jersey, or Tom Ford if the night is the point
The quieter price
DÔEN's Fiona midi, or STAUD's Adriana for saturation without a gown
Shop the Look

The Jewel Tone

Every piece in the edit — tap to shop.

The Colours
The Gown

Floor length, and occasion only. This is where a jewel tone stops being a colour and becomes the whole evening. Galvan, Tom Ford, The Attico, Tove, Solace London and Norma Kamali.

Galvan Emilie Tie-detailed Satin Gown

Emerald satin, floor length. The one that makes everything around it look cheaper.

Tom Ford Embellished Satin Gown

Embellished amethyst, and the runway argument for the whole edit.

The Attico Feather-trimmed Satin Gown

Feathers on satin, which is two kinds of theatre at once. Only if you want both.

Tove Coco Silk-satin Gown

Silk satin, fluid, liquid. The quietest gown here.

Solace London Gabriela One-shoulder Satin Gown

One shoulder, and the least expensive way into a floor-length jewel.

Norma Kamali Reverse Obie Gown

Jersey rather than satin, so it travels and it forgives.

The Maxi

The jewel tone at its most wearable — long, fluid, and it doesn't need embellishment to make the point. Taller Marmo, FFORME, TOVE twice, DEME and Alaïa.

Taller Marmo Paloma One-shoulder Satin-crepe Maxi Dress

One shoulder in satin crepe. Warm evening, and the colour does the talking.

FFORME Mila Satin Maxi Dress

Satin, unfussy. The one you'd wear to something that isn't a gala.

TOVE Gio Open-back Silk-cloqué Maxi Dress

Open back in silk cloqué. The colour without a single crystal.

DEME Talia Draped Silk-satin Maxi Dress

Draped silk satin, and the drape is what makes the colour move.

Alaïa Draped Halterneck Jersey Maxi Dress

Jersey, halterneck, no embroidery anywhere. The house doing the cut and nothing else. Mine.

TOVE Eira Gathered Maxi Dress

Gathered rather than draped, which reads softer.

Shop the Look

The Jewel Tone

Tap any piece below to shop the whole edit.

The Midi

The most versatile length, and the one that carries saturated colour through daylight. DÔEN, SIMKHAI, Oscar de la Renta and Roksanda.

DÔEN Fiona Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Midi Dress

Lace-trimmed silk satin. Daylight that still looks considered.

SIMKHAI Ammalie Organza-trimmed Taffeta Midi Dress

Taffeta with organza at the edge. The most structured midi here.

Oscar de la Renta Off-shoulder Silk Midi Dress

Off-shoulder silk. Citrine gold rather than mustard — warm, clear, and still a stone.

Roksanda Elina Midi Dress

Colour-blocked, so it carries two shades instead of one. The exception to the one-stone rule.

The Mini

Colour at its most confident. One saturated mini is a decision — two is a habit. Valentino, Khaite twice, Isabel Marant twice, STAUD, Norma Kamali and Saint Laurent.

Valentino Garavani Crystal-embellished Polka-dot Mini Dress

Crystals, polka dots and a jewel tone. Three ideas at once — buy it if you mean all three.

Khaite Judith Dress, Coral

Coral, which sits on the warm side of ruby. Buy it for the shade rather than the category.

Khaite Darby Dress, Mustard

Mustard rather than citrine — warmer, softer, and closer to autumn than to a gemstone.

Isabel Marant Neline Satin Mini Dress

Satin, saturated, and the cleanest mini in the group.

Isabel Marant Nevana Dress, Brick

Brick, which reads autumn before it reads ruby. The second Marant — pick one.

STAUD Adriana Draped Silk-blend Mini Dress

Draped silk blend. Saturation without a gown, and the easiest entry point here.

Norma Kamali Reverse Obie Mini Dress

The short version of the gown above. Same jersey, entirely different night.

Saint Laurent Embroidered Satin Mini Dress

Embroidered satin in green. The house and the stone in one short dress.

Halter Crinkle Balloon Mini Dress

Crinkled and balloon-shaped, so the volume does what the colour doesn't.

The Separates

The way into a jewel tone without committing to a fifth dress. Under black, with a white shirt, or as a layer. DÔEN, Valentino, FFORME twice and Khaite.

DÔEN Viviane Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Top

Lace-trimmed silk satin. Under black, and nothing else asking.

Valentino Garavani Polka-dot Straight-leg Pants

Polka dots on a jewel tone. The boldest separate here by some distance.

FFORME Jovie Crepe-satin Midi Skirt

Crepe satin. With a white shirt, and the outfit is finished.

Khaite Tulula Silk Organza Slip Dress

Silk organza, sheer. The colour as a layer rather than a costume.

FFORME Nyx Sleeveless Dress

Sleeveless and plain. The separate that behaves like a dress.

The Houses

The Designers in this Edit

Every piece in this edit, by the houses behind it. Explore them all.

Tom Ford Saint Laurent Khaite Alaïa Galvan Tove Valentino Isabel Marant Taller Marmo DÔEN Oscar de la Renta The Attico Roksanda FFORME Norma Kamali Solace London

Let the pastels rest for a season and dress instead in the colours once reserved for queens. Head to toe only if you mean it — otherwise one stone, and let everything else look ordinary.— ESVRA